Some advice if you want to make your own kilt:
Start by studying the instructions on these sites, which explain how
to make a traditional kilt:
Kilt
Making Website
Jan Bruyndonckx's
Kilt Website
If you aren't using a tartan fabric, you can ignore the parts about figuring
out what sett you need, and just calculate what you want the pleats to
measure. (I did mine 2 1/2-inches each, with 5 1/2 folded under. So that
takes up 8 inches of material per pleat.)
Look at the "top-view of the pleating" picture from Jan Bruyndonckx's
website. Draw one like that of your design, so you can be sure of the
measurements and what it will look like.
Unlike traditional kilts, you don't have to worry about how well you
press the pleats, and there is no real need for basting. ("Basting,"
as you will read, involves sewing the pleats in place with a removable
stitch. After the pleats are pressed, the basting is removed.) Here is
what I do instead: Mark pleats at the top and bottom and along the hip
line. Pin the pleats in place, about 1/2" in from the edge of the
pleat.
Run a stitch along the outside on each pleat from the hip line to the
bottom, to lock it there. Now sew the top of each pleat (from the hipline
to the top), remembering to angle in towards the waist line to get the
right "taper". Now turn the kilt over, and run a stitch on the
inside fold of each pleat, too, from the hip line to the bottom edge.
Now the pleats are permanent!
On the inside of the kilt, I hand-stich each pleat at the hipline, tacking
the inside edge of the pleat down to the rest of the kilt. Do this for
every pleat EXCEPT the very first and last pleat.
Now you can trim out the top piece of the fabric inside each pleat,
and still the pleat won't "droop" open. Do not trim out the
top of the first and last pleat. Leave them whole, and fasten them inside
the waistband.
I added a simple pocket to the front of the inner apron. Just a piece
of extra material, sewn on 3 sides, open at the top. Works great. Looks
a little strange when you reach inside for your wallet, but I usually
accompany it my best Cleavon Little impression, "'Scuse me while
I whip this out."
To add the internal back pocket:
- Iron-on a 6-inch piece of interfacing to the inside of the kilt, where
you want the pocket opening to be. Draw a 5 1/2" line across the
middle of the interfacing (this is will be the line you will cut to
create the opening). Use a tight zig-zag or button-hole stitch to outline
the line you drew.
- The pocket lining will be a separtate piece of fabric--approx. 6"
by 12", folded in half and stitched up the sides. The top opening
should have one side about 1/2-inch longer than the other.
- Sew the shorter side of this pocket fabric to the bottom of your zig-zagged
outline.
- Cut the opening in your kilt, right between the zig-zags on the line
you drew. Make sure you don't cut the pocket fabric by mistake!
- Flip the longer part of the pocket fabric across the pocket opening.
Sew it in place.
- Add a flap to the outside, if you like.
Finally, here are some online sources for Camouflage
Fabric.
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