Construction Details
If your question isn't answered here, please send me
an email!
|
| Q. |
Can you tell me more about how your
kilts are constructed? |
| A. |
The "standard" kilts are made from
one long piece of material, (around 13 feet long, depending on the
waist size). The front apron (the unpleated portion)
is 14 to 16 inches wide, with a similar sized inner apron. The bottom
and all edges are hemmed. Pleats are sewn along the outside edge
and along the inside edge, which makes ironing unnecessary (or at
least much easier, depending on the fabric).
The "Two-tone Kilt" is constructed from a shorter piece
of fabric, with the inside of the pleats sewn in. The bottom edge
is still fully hemmed. Apron sizes are still 14 to 16 inches, and
pleats are sewn along the outside and inside edges.
|
| |
The
watch-word at Pittsburgh Kilts is "Solid". Our kilts are
constructed to stand up to rigorous wear. Most stress points are
reinforced with extra stitching. Even the waistband gets three full
rows of stitching alongs its length. Belt loops are well sewn. Items
like the apron pockets and sporrans are double-stitched along the
edges.
|
| Q. |
Where am I going to put my wallet and
my keys? |
| A. |
All Pittsburgh Kilts come with a pocket
sewn to the inner apron. This has many benefits: the pocket is safe
and unobtrusive, easy to access,
and the weight of the pocket contents helps the aprons drop nicely
in place when you sit down. The pocket is slanted to help you access
it from the right-side opening. This pocket can also be outfitted
with a zipper.
Other pocket options are also available -- see the
Design Options page.
D-rings on the front belt loops provide a convenient
place to clip your keys. You can, of course, put them in the apron
pocket if you prefer.
|
| Q. |
How do your kilts fasten? |
| A. |
I use heavy-duty hook fasteners hidden
inside the waistband. Other kilt makers have used everything from
the
traditional buckle fasteners to Velcro and snaps. I like the hooks
for many reasons: they are strong, secure, and invisible. Best of
all, they are easy to relocate, so if you lose (or add) an inch
or two to your waist, a couple minutes with a needle and thread
will save you from having to buy a new kilt!
When possible, I will do a final kilt fitting in person,
so that I can position the kilt fasteners exactly where you need
them. When that isn’t possible, I will send the kilt with extra
hooks sewn an inch each way of the waist measurement provided. This
gives a full 2 inches of leeway -- a convienent option when attending
all-you-can-eat pancake suppers!
|
| Q. |
What types of fabric do you use? |
| A. |
Cotton twill is my favorite, and I
use it where I can. I have had good luck with some poly/cotton blends,
but it requires the right "feel" to pick out a good one. I've also
sewn kilts in denim and corduroy.
Recently I have found a source for a great all-cotton
brushed-denim fabric. The material
is soft but tough, and looks great. I continue to search for really
good material, and stockpile it when I can.
Click to see what solid-color
and camouflage fabrics I have on
hand, but please remember, your choices are NOT limited to this
selection. If you have a specific request or color in mind, I will
search until I find the right fabric for your kilt!
|
| Q. |
What other pocket
options are available? |
| A. |
Please see the
Pittsburgh Kilts Design Options page for information about pocket
options.
|
| Q. |
I like the idea, but would prefer a
different style. Are there other kilt makers out there? |
| A. |
Yes, there are, and we all owe a debt
of gratitude to Steven Villegas, founder of Utilikilts.
Please visit the Utilikilts website, and if you see something you
like, please buy it! Wear it, enjoy it, and maybe somewhere down
the road, you’ll decide that you also want a custom-made kilt from
Pittsburgh Kilts.
|